Flights Unbooked!

I had read and planned, sought advice, and bought the recommended gear. Learning Spanish as quickly as this brain would allow. Hiking with poles in the snow. Thought I knew the meaning of the expression, “You don’t have the dream; the dream has you.”

Now the dream is on hold as my wife recovers from an illness. I’ was to meet Martin Kronberg, his wife Conny and their 3-year-old daughter Lucia in St. Jean Pied de Port on April 7, 2017. We were to walk together for the first week, up to the pass through the Pyrenees and down the other side, continuing on as far as Pamplona. They were then to take the bus to Madrid and fly back to their home in Berlin where they are both teachers. (I met Martin in the eighties when he was just 10 when I stayed at his parents’ place while I studied German and Philosophy at Freiburg University. How amazing that we have stayed in contact!)

A photo of the German family when I stayed with them in the 70s. Clockwise from left: Hans-Guenther Kronberg, Irmgard, me, Martin (7) and Christoph. Jörg took the photo. 

Why the Camino?

A big “zero” birthday and time to slow the world down a bit, take time to see the things I am always rushing by, time to look into the eyes of people I’m talking to instead of just seeing blurs, time to try to understand rather that fit into my prejudgments.

1. I’ve had an exceedingly lucky life. I want to ‘push the gratitude button’ every day.
2. I want to ask the ‘spiritual questions’ as I walk this pilgrimage.
3. I look forward to enjoying the wonderful physical challenges I know my body can take on.
4. I’m relishing diving into the Spanish culture and language and food – trying not to hit my head too many times.
5. Maybe there’s a watercolour or two I can do along the way.
6. I love the sense of adventure and the feeling of ‘going it alone’, although one is never alone. (What with carrying an I-Pad and smart phone, not speak of maintaining this blog.)
7. Discovering what I don’t know. “All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveller is unaware.” (Martin Buber)

What is the Camino?

There are actually several Caminos leading to Santiago de Compostella in northwestern Spain. The one I have chosen is the “Frances” or French one. It typically starts in southwestern France at St Jean Pied de Port. As it wends its way 800 km across northern Spain, it follows a well established path through forests, fields, up and down several steepish hills, and along roads until approximately 35 days of hiking later one arrives at the pilgrimage site of St James at Santiago de Compostella. Along the way I plan to stay at inexpensive and basic “albergues” or hostels, although private accommodations are also available. Restaurants have inexpensive pilgrims’ menus as well menus of the day all with pricier fare. Pilgrims have been following this route for hundreds of years, ever since the grave of St James was discovered in Santiago, so it is well established. The pilgrimage was used to serve penance or to establish ones spiritual credentials. My plan is to average 20 km a day, staying more than one day in the major cities of Pamplona, Leon and Burgos, as well as Santiago. It should take me just over 50 days.